Table of Contents
The fashion industry is often discussed as one of the sectors associated with greenwashing, where terms associated with sustainability are widely used but not always clearly defined or independently verified. Terms such as "natural," "clean," "eco-friendly," "conscious," and "green" appear frequently across brands and products, but they do not always explain what part of the supply chain they refer to or what level of verification is in place. In textiles, this distinction matters. A claim linked to one stage of production, such as "natural" at the farm level, pertaining to the natural fiber, does not automatically extend to the rest of the textile processes like dyeing, finishing, or garment manufacturing. As a result, the same sustainability term can represent very different realities depending on where it is applied in the supply chain.
Textile certifications are designed to help address this gap. Unlike broad marketing language, they are based on defined standards, specific stages of production, and independent verification systems that explain clearer boundaries for what is being assessed.
The Structural Problem of Greenwashing
As demand for more sustainable fashion grows, some brands are taking meaningful steps to change their materials, manufacturing processes and supply chains. The issue is with those who don't implement these substantive changes and instead use misdirection or performative sustainability terms to communicate a sense of progress that does not match their actual practices. This practice of performative sustainability, or greenwashing, has become increasingly visible over the last few years, going hand in hand with rising attention around some of the most critical problems facing fashion today: fast fashion, overproduction, material waste, and resource-intensive manufacturing. As a result, genuine environmental claims have become an increasingly important part of how fashion brands market their products.
At the same time, we understand that multi-stage, cross-border supply chains are a challenge for full traceability. When ambiguous language is paired with limited regulatory oversight, misleading marketing claims inevitably outpace actual verification.
The consequences extend beyond marketing. Greenwashing makes it harder for consumers to distinguish between real improvements and unsupported claims, undermining trust across the industry. It can also distract from more fundamental structural problems like overproduction, material waste and resource-intensive manufacturing systems. Some of the most common fashion red flags in practice include:
- Vague environmental claims with no measurable evidence
- One "green" feature to represent the whole product
- Proof of product level without branding and storytelling
- No description of scope or verification of absolute claims
- Inconsistent messaging across product pages, packaging and marketing materials
The environmental impact is not exclusive to fast fashion, but similar challenges can occur in other parts of the industry such as luxury fashion, where production planning and inventory practices can still result in waste.
In reported disclosures, Burberry, a luxury fashion house, reported in its annual filings that it destroyed unsold inventory worth millions of pounds in a single year (2018). While this is only one publicly reported example, the volume of waste generated in just one reported year suggests just how prevalent some of these issues are and helps illustrate why clearer verification is needed.
The Certification Comparison Table
| Certification | What It Covers | What It Focuses On | How to Verify |
|---|---|---|---|
| Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) | Organic fiber processing from post-harvest to finished textile | Environmental criteria, restricted chemicals, social compliance across processing stages | Check certified product labels and verify certification number in the official GOTS database |
| OEKO-TEX Standard 100 | Testing of harmful substances in finished textile products | Product safety and chemical restrictions | Look for OEKO-TEX label and verify certificate number via OEKO-TEX online label check |
| Regenerative Organic Certified®(ROC™) | Agricultural production of fibers | Soil health, animal welfare, and farmer conditions | Check ROC certification status via Regenerative Organic Alliance listings or certified brand disclosures |
| Bluesign® | Textile manufacturing processes and chemical management | Environmental safety in production processes | Verify approved partners/products through the official bluesign® system directory |
Certification Deep-Dives
1. GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard)
GOTS is widely recognized as a leading standard for organic textiles. It certifies post-harvest processing of organic fiber. This means that the fiber has to be certified organic to an approved agricultural standard before it enters the GOTS system.
Once the fiber enters the GOTS system, GOTS tracks and verifies every step of processing, from ginning or fiber preparation, spinning, weaving or knitting, wet processing such as dyeing and finishing, manufacturing to the final trading. Each stage must meet defined environmental and social criteria, and the system relies on chain-of-custody traceability.
This means that GOTS certification applies to the textile product only when the entire processing chain meets the standard requirements.
NOTE: A genuine GOTS-certified product will always carry an official label on the product or its packaging. The label should include the GOTS logo itself, the appropriate label grade ("Organic" or "Made with Organic"), the certification body, and a valid licence number, available for verification in the GOTS database. Example:
2. OEKO-TEX Standard 100
OEKO-TEX Standard 100 centers on product safety. It tests finished textile products for a large number of regulated harmful substances.
Its scope is limited to whether the final product is safe for direct human contact. It does not evaluate how fibers were grown or whether broader environmental practices were followed during production.
Because of this scope, a wide range of materials, including conventionally produced fibers, can still be certified if the finished product meets the required safety thresholds established through independent laboratory testing.
3. Bluesign®
bluesign® is a manufacturing-focused system designed to reduce environmental and human health impacts in textile production.
It assesses chemical inputs, resource use, emissions, wastewater management and worker safety at the key stages of production. It works with authorized system partners to improve environmental performance in manufacturing processes as well as finished products.
Verification is carried out through partner assessments, on-site audits, and ongoing compliance monitoring.
4. Regenerative Organic Certified® (ROC™)
Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC) applies to the agricultural stage of production and builds on USDA Organic standards by adding requirements for soil health, animal welfare, and farmer and worker conditions.
This is designed to support regenerative farming practices, and also has a tiered system (Bronze, Silver and Gold) that reflects levels of progress toward regenerative outcomes. Verification is conducted through farm-level audits performed by accredited certification bodies.
Beyond Textile Certifications
Genuine ethical fashion considers the people behind the products we use everyday. Farmers, workers, and producers deserve fair pay, safe working conditions, and the opportunity to build more secure futures for themselves and their communities.
These principles are at the heart of Fair Trade Certified, working to build a better trade system, and create more opportunities for workers and producers to improve their livelihoods. Ethical fashion is about more than the material, it's also about how the people who made it are treated.
Responsible materials matter but so do the wages, working conditions, rights and opportunities for the people who make them possible.
Closing Thoughts
Understanding textile certifications helps clarify how sustainability claims are defined and verified within the fashion industry. While sustainability language in marketing can vary in meaning depending on context, certifications provide structured standards for specific stages of production, supported by independent verification.
To get a real sense of a brand's sustainability, it's handy to examine how the business functions outside of those certifications. Look at the materials they use, how workers are treated, where and how products are made, and how the brand approaches packaging, transportation, and end of life. Looking across these areas gives a clearer sense of the brand's overall practices than relying on a single certification or claim.
Because different parts of the supply chain operate under different environmental and social conditions, certifications offer a consistent way to understand what has actually been verified and what is simply being communicated.
At Terra Thread, we offer GOTS-certified backpacks, totes, and bags that are made using organic cotton at Fair Trade Certified factories.
FAQ
What is the most comprehensive textile certification?
GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) is widely considered one of the most comprehensive textile certifications. It covers post-harvest processing from organic fiber at the farm stage through manufacturing and labeling, along with environmental and social criteria across the production chain.
What is the difference between GOTS and OEKO-TEX?
GOTS focuses on post-harvest textile processing and manufacturing, while OEKO-TEX Standard 100 focuses on product safety. GOTS evaluates the textile supply chain for environmental and social criteria across certified processing and manufacturing stages, while OEKO-TEX tests finished products for harmful substances to ensure they meet defined safety requirements.
Is B Corp the same as a product certification?
No. B Corp certification applies to companies rather than individual products. B Corp evaluates overall business practices, including social impact, environmental performance, governance, and workplace standards.
Can a brand be greenwashing even if it has certifications?
Yes. Certifications apply only to specific standards, parts of production, or even a single product in a brand's offering, so they do not automatically make a brand's entire business sustainable. It is also worth looking at how a brand operates, including how it packages and ships orders, how often it releases new products, and whether it encourages constant buying. A brand can use certified materials while still following a business model that resembles fast fashion.
